the torture of trekking gorillas in Uganda

The third leg of my vacation took me to Uganda.  As soon as I saw the landscape from the airplane window, I felt a sense of familiarity, as Uganda’s topography is very similar to Rwanda, albeit a bit less hilly.  Kampala is like Kigali on steroids, and I got great enjoyment out of seeing it through the eyes of my sister-in-laws who seemed in awe of the number of people, the amount of traffic, and the level of chaos as we traveled through the city.  We spent three days total in Uganda, two days traveling from Kampala to the Southwest corner and back again (each ~12 hour trips) and one day with the gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.  The roads in Uganda are not kind, but I will say that they have the art of speed bumps perfected.  One bump is apparently not sufficient in Uganda so they have "quints" as we affectionately named them, which are 5 speed bumps in a row.  Yes, they make for a very unpleasant ride.  Not only do they have "quints," but there are sections of road that have speed bumps spaced every 25 meters or so!  It's over-the-top and absurd in so many ways.  

Our eco-lodge was magnificently placed one hour off the main road, through a series of switchbacks set into the side of the mountain, with sheer cliffs off to the one side and not a guardrail in sight.  It was clear to us why our driver wanted to arrive before dark and before any rain had a chance to fall.  The road was precarious at best and downright nauseating at other times.  It was quite magnificent!  (see photo above) Our lodging consisted of a permanent tent with three single beds, a nice wrap-around deck with chairs, and a lovely stone-encased bathroom.  Considering our beyond-remote location, we were pleasantly shocked to learn that not only did we have running water and electricity (provided from a generator), we had HOT water!  The entire facility was just darling and the staff made us feel most welcome and “at home.”  

 I have several friends who have done the gorilla trek in Rwanda and some were blown away by the experience and others felt luke-warm about it.  All of them considered it to be a rather easy hike, requiring minimal effort.  After my experience, I quickly decided that THAT describes Rwanda gorilla trekking and Uganda is NOT Rwanda.  To say that the experience was the most physically demanding endeavor I have ever put my body through is probably as accurate of a statement as I can make.  It was brutal at times and not overly enjoyable.  There were times when there was no path at all to follow, other times when the path was the width of my foot and a cliff fell off to the side, other areas that were wide open, and other times where the jungle was so dense that I could barely keep track of the people around me.  Some of the forest was welcoming and the underbrush was soft and bouncy, and some of the forest was not so hospitable and was filled with spiky trees, thorns that seemingly reached out and grabbed my arms and legs, slippery moss, hidden booby-trap holes (that I fell into more than once) and bugs that swarmed around each of our heads in what can only be described as a brutal effort to suffocate us or drive us crazy at the very least. 

a view of an entrance into Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

Three hours into the hike, I honestly thought to myself that NOTHING could make the trek worthwhile, and I am still considering whether or not that was a true statement.  The jury is still out.  When we finally approached the family we were tracking, we saw the giant silverback.  He was 200kg+ and is the largest of all of the silverbacks in Uganda.  I have to say that the encounter was surreal and captivating.  As we watched him, he watched us and for a while I got lost in the moment.  We spent most our allotted hour with him (each tracking group only gets 1 hour with a gorilla family, so as not to intrude in their world too much), and spent just a few minutes with other members of his family – a young toddler who was very playful, and a female.  Our guide said that it was not a great encounter because of the dense vegetation, but I thought it was spectacular that we got to see a silverback! 

an "after-the-trek" photo op

After our time with the gorillas, we had a quick picnic lunch and then began the equally long and arduous trek back to where we began the journey.  I honestly did not know whether to cry or collapse when we finished – I was elated, and somewhat dazed. But we made it!  We each got gorilla trekking certificates for our accomplishment, and were congratulated for conquering the task-at-hand and not being conquered by it.  I wasn’t sure whether I had really dominated anything, but at least I finished and was still smiling.  I rewarded myself with a 90-minute massage back at the eco-lodge, and although it was a bit unconventional, it was absolutely glorious after battering and abusing my body all day on the hike (AND it only cost USD$15!)  

 

After a 12-hour drive back to the airport in Entebbe, my sister-in-laws and I realized that after three very different voyages spanning the mainland of Tanzania as well as the island of Zanzibar, and then ultimately Uganda, it was time to say goodbye.  They were headed back to the USA and I was headed to South Africa for the final 10 days of my vacation.  It was exceptional to share Africa with my sister-in-laws and have them experience a piece of my world.  Our time together was extraordinary and I will forever cherish the memories in my heart. 

THANKS AGAIN STEPH AND COURT! 

I'll take a dala dala and some spices, please

Zanzibar is seemingly where the Arab world meets India and collides with sub-Saharan Africa.  It is unlike anywhere I have ever been, and spectacular in so many ways. Zanzibar is located in the Indian Ocean, 6° south of the equator and 36 km from the Tanzanian mainland coast. It is 108 km long and 32 km wide, with an area of 2,461 km² (950 sq mi).  Zanzibar is characterized by beautiful sandy beaches with fringing coral reefs, and the magic of historic Stone Town – said to be the only functioning ancient town in East Africa.  Several years ago, a friend of mine told me that Zanzibar was his "favorite place in the world."  I honestly had never given the island much thought before then, but it was on my must-visit list when I moved to Rwanda, 9 months ago today.  

Going from being within arm's reach of a lion several hours before, to the semi-autonomous island of Zanzibar made it seem like I had been transported to another world when I arrived early in the evening.  I was still wearing the dust of the Serengeti when I landed, and I felt like I had arrived on the set of Aladdin and was instantly infused with wonder, delight, and pure excitement! 

The first full-day was spent getting lost in Stone Town (literally and figuratively).  Once I ventured off of the main roads, a maze-like series of narrow alleys exploded in front of me.  Although at times it felt a bit claustrophobic, it was sort of enchanting.  The alleys were lined with store after store, filled with African crafts, spices, fabrics, and food.  It was such a lovely escape, and there were times when I felt like I had tripped down Alice's rabbit hole because it seemed so other-worldly.  

My sister-in-laws and I chose two excursions to go on while in Zanzibar - a Spice Tour, and a snorkeling trip near Prison Island.  After breakfast in our boutique hotel's rooftop cafe (we found that most cafes and restaurants in Stone Town were located on the roofs of buildings), we headed about thirty minutes away from Stone Town to a spice farm.  We really had no idea what we were in for, but it turned out to be exceptional!  During the tour we put our senses to work while we saw, touched, tasted, and smelled a variety of nature's finest - a teak forest, a mahogany forest, pineapple plants, banana trees (see banana fruit photo to the left), peppercorn plants (5 colors), lemongrass, cinnamon, coconuts, star fruit, lychee, coffee, turmeric, breadfruit, jack fruit, oranges, cloves, ginger, nutmeg (see photo of the red nutmeg nut to the left, above the banana fruit), cardamon, cocoa pods, chili peppers, vanilla beans, annoto (a red seed that makes dyes for cosmetics - photo above, to the right), curry, ylang flowers, and much more. It was incredible!  Throughout the tour of the farm, three local men made palm frond bracelets, rings, necklaces, and glasses for us to wear, as well as a little container to hold all of our spice samples.  They were charming and so creative with the natural fibers and materials at their disposal.  To be honest, the spice tour was quite fascinating and much more enjoyale and captivating than I could have ever imagined.  

After the tour, we had a traditional Zanzabarian lunch underneath a traditional African thatched hut - pilau rice with steamed spinach and coconut sauce, infused with spices and vegetables.  It was prepared for us by the locals and was absolutely delicious (and perfectly seasoned!)

Our return trip to Stone Town contained a bit of excitement as we boarded a dala dala bus with the locals  (see photo to the right).  

 Our second excursion had us boarding a local's boat and venturing out into the Indian Ocean to a coral reef just off the coast of Prison Island (also known as Changuu or Quarantine Island) which is 3.5 miles north-west of Stone Town. The island saw use as a prison for rebellious slaves in the 1860s and also functioned as a coral mine.  No prisoners were ever housed on the island and instead it became a quarantine station for yellow fever cases. More recently the island has become a government-owned tourist resort and houses over 100 endangered Aldabra Giant Tortoises which were originally a gift from the British governor of the Seychelles in 1919.  After enduring the sun and heat out on the spice tour, I was eager to jump into the Indian Ocean for a bit of snorkeling.  There weren't as many fish as I had hoped for, but I saw a few small schools and plenty of starfish and urchins.  The sea was the most beautiful color imaginable with its turquoise color accentuated by the white-washed buildings along the coast of Stone Town.  After some fun in the water, we toured the Tortoise Sanctuary and I even got to hold one of the endangered creatures!  (somehow I don't think that would have been permitted in the USA)

My trip to Zanzibar came to a close with a perfect dinner on the beach, looking out at the Indian Ocean as the sun set, with drinks in hand, laughter in the air, and a sense of excitement as my sister-in-laws and I looked forward to taking off on our third leg of the trip - Uganda and the gorillas!

Lions, Zebras, and Cheetahs - OH MY!

 

Everyone needs a reprieve from the daily grind, and that goes for those of us in fellowship and volunteer programs as well.  To the outside world, some view my year in Rwanda as an adjournment from life, when in fact it’s more of an alternate route that I have chosen to take in lieu of continuing on in the same direction I was headed prior to moving here.  My year in Rwanda is not a year of vacation, relaxation and rest.  In the second term alone, I was responsible for overseeing 97 overnight guests and over 73 day visitors in the Village.  One group of visitors blended into the next, and by the end of the term, I felt utterly drained and a bit ragged.   6 weeks of vacation was a welcome antidote.  Some people only dream of having that much time off, and here it is part of my reality living in Rwanda.  The term break between the 2^nd and 3^rd final term of the school year began on 21^st July, affording me the opportunity to see and do the three things I wanted to experience when I first moved to Rwanda – trekking with the gorillas, exploring Zanzibar, and visiting Cape Town.  Along with those adventures, I also had the opportunity to go on my second Tanzanian safari with two of the best travel companions – 2 of my sister-in-laws (who also trekked with me and explored Zanzibar).  Before I get too far ahead of myself, allow me to jump back to the first two weeks of vacation, which I spent in the Village. This quiet “down time” permitted me to get my room and house in order, relax, think, meditate, and spend time with the few students who remained in the Village. The Senior 6 (4th year) students were in the Village studying for the upcoming National Exam (somewhat the equivalent of the SATs in America), Senior 5 (3rd year) students were also in the Village, and 25 Enrichment Year (1st year) students were in the Village working with the International Theatre and Literacy Program from NYC.  Each afternoon I attended rehearsals with the aforementioned theatre students, which took me back to the days when I performed on stage.  To see the magic of theatre manifest itself in and take hold of the students was just enchanting!  So many of the first year students are still a bit reclusive and withdrawn, but leave it to the stage to encourage and allow them to emerge from their cocoons and experience the joy of expression!  After untold hours of rehearsal, they would leave energized, animated, and full of life – it was magnificent to see.  In the end, after 2 weeks of work, a drama was scripted, roles were developed, the staging was set, and the students performed their dramatic play.  It was a brilliant piece of art and I sat in the audience looking at all of the kids as if each of them were my own brothers and sisters.  I know the kind of therapeutic magic theatre and acting did for me through my many years on stage, but to witness it from a different perspective was absolutely lovely and profound.

To prevent this from being the longest blog entry on record, I am going to break the remaining 4 weeks of my vacation time traveling into several entries, each describing a different leg of my journey.   

First up – the Tanzanian safari!    

Nearly two years ago to the date, I was afforded the opportunity to go on safari with an amazing group of friends, who are more like family to me than acquaintances.  We spent nearly two weeks on a Tauck Bridges safari, which is a “glamping” (or glamorous camping) safari, spending nights in exquisite lodges.  This time, my sister-in-laws and I decided to “rough it” a bit and opted to camp - in tents - with wild animals all around us - and squatty potty toilets (holes in the ground).  There was nothing glamorous about any aspect of our trip, but it was extraordinary! Two years after I fell in love with Tanzania, I was back.  I had dreamed for so long to go on an African safari, and now in the span of just over two years, I have gone on two safaris.  That is truly remarkable and fills me with awe!

Day 1 – My sister-in-laws flew from America and met me at the Kilimanjaro airport in Arusha, Tanzania.  I had not seen either of them since Thanksgiving, so tears flooded my eyes as soon as I got a glimpse of them in the baggage claim area.  A sudden rush of sadness hit me though, realizing for the first time that had my brother Kurt been alive, he very likely would have been accompanying them and going on this adventure with us.  Family has become everything to me since my brother’s death, so having two of my sister-in-laws travel literally around the world to see me meant more than the world to me.  I don’t have the words to describe my gratitude.  

Day 2 – We met our driver Moses and personal cook for the safari (nicknamed rabbit) and traveled to Tarangire National Park, which occupies an area 2850km², making it the 5^th largest park in Tanzania.  It is best known for its many elephants and magnificent Baobab trees.  After setting up camp, we went for a late afternoon game drive and hit the jackpot – we saw water bucks, buffalo, a cheetah and her baby eating a gazelle, zebra, lions, impala, elephants, monkeys (including one that nearly climbed inside our vehicle!), a dik dik, a jackal, and numerous birds.  What a great way to christen our safari!  It was so incredible to be back and feel such love for Tanzania – the country makes me feel something very special, unlike anywhere else I have discovered.  There is such a sense of serenity that I need to bottle and take with me everywhere I go.  

Day 3 -  We saw hippos (see photo to the left), hartebeest, giraffe, antelopes, topi, gazelles, more lions, and a warthog today, even with spending much of the day driving from Tarangire into Ngorongoro conservation area, around the top edge of the caldera (see photo below, to the left), and into the Serengeti.  It was a long, dusty, and bumpy ride, but the scenery was just breath-taking.  On our way, we stopped at a Maasai Village where we were greeted with a traditional welcome dance.  The three of us joined in the fun and wore traditional beaded necklaces while we jumped up and down and did a dance with the locals (see photo below, to the right).  The day was filled (for me) with two extraordinary sights.  The first being the “white faced” Maasai, which I hadn’t seen on my last trip to Tanzania.  I was told that every three years, young Maasai men go on a three month journey where they venture away from their Villages and live in the bush.  They must do it before they turn 18, so their ages vary.  During this journey, they dress in black (a stark contrast to their usual bluish purple and red Maasai attire), and adorn their faces in decorative and ornate patterns of white paint.  It is during this time that their bodies recover from a recent circumcision, and when they return to their Villages, they are deemed a “man” and are given a spear and are allowed to begin courting females.  At first site, their appearance is a bit ghoulish, yet fantastic and mesmerizing.  The second extraordinary sight of the day was seeing 5 lionesses laying out, lounging in the afternoon sun as we drove into Serengeti National Park!  It was glorious!

 

Day 4 – Today’s close encounter was with a leopard!  Leopards are such magnificent creatures, elusive and stealthy and absolutely beautiful!  After that sighting, we saw 2 cheetahs perched atop a mound, almost posing for the cameras (see photo to the left).  We also saw a serval, a hyrax, baboons, blue-balled monkeys (yes, they have fluorescent blue balls), vultures, the infamous Tanzanian love birds (see photo below), warthogs, and hippos galore at the hippo pond.  The noises and sights on safari are truly exceptional.  It is such a remarkable place and I found myself smiling just from looking around at the landscape.  We returned to camp just as the majestic sun set over the Serengeti, and I snapped one of my all-time favorite photos of buffalo grazing (see photo at the beginning of this post).  

Day 5 – We saw 17 lions on our early morning game drive!  A pride of 7 females crossed our path two times, literally walking within a car’s length of our vehicle (see photo to the right and watch the video below).   They were returning from a kill and were smeared with blood, which stained the fur around their noses and mouths and on their paws.  What a spectacle and glimpse of the rawness of nature!  After all that excitement, we returned to camp, had brunch, and headed back to Ngorongoro. 

When we arrived at our campsite later in the day, my breath was stolen from me for a moment – the setting was brilliant, perched atop the ridge, overlooking the caldera below (see photo below).  It was absolutely wild, in fact I had to walk through a herd of grazing zebras on my way to the bathroom!   

 
Day 6 – Between the seemingly sub-zero temperatures that made me shiver all night long, and the WHOOOOP calls of the nearby hyenas, I did not sleep well, but that didn’t put a damper on our last day of safari – inside the Ngorongoro Caldera.  We finally saw the big daddy lion, with its untamed mane blowing in the gentle breeze (see photo to the left).  We found him with is “lady” at the end of their mating cycle.  Lions mate every 15 minutes or so for 7 continuous days, once or twice a year, so you can only imagine how exhausted the female lion looked when we found her.  A bit further along the path, we joined dozens of other safari cars and could barely make out in the distance one of the 26 remaining black rhinos in the caldera.  Further along the road, we came to a screeching halt because right next to the road, literally within arm’s reach lay a lioness, just relaxing as if she didn’t have a care in the world.  If I had stepped out of the vehicle, I would have stepped on her – that’s how close she was to us!  Just beyond her was one of my favorite sights of the trip – a lion in a tree! (see photo to the right) What a stunning and exhilarating way to finish off our safari!   

As our airplane taxied down the runway, Mt. Kilimanjaro came out from hiding behind the clouds (a rare occurrence during this time of year).  What a spectacular sight to see out of the airplane window as we took off for our next leg – Zanzibar!